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The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 3, Page 8
Gentry and Aristocracy, Men:
Extant Garments

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men Gentry and Aristocracy, Women Gentry and Aristocracy, Men The Whole Look: Accessories Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear


Shirt of the Duke of Richmond. What marks it as a shirt of the first half of the 17th c. is the lace inset strips at all seams. A falling lace collar is added to the shirt and so is the lace at the cuffs. The bottom of the side seams is open and the hem appears to be embroidered all around. The lace insertion is a geometrical reticella.
Shirt of King Christian IV of Denmark, who was wounded in 1648 in a naval battle. The blood stained shirt, handkerchief, lace collar, silk velvet brocade doublet were all kept in the hope they might become reliquaries and symbols of Denmark's power against the Swedish kingdom. It turned out to be futile.
1 After Denmark had been weakened by Christian IV’s unsuccessful intervention in the Thirty Year War (1618-1648), the conflict developed into a struggle for survival on Denmark’s part, and for a while the country was on the point of becoming part of a large Swedish Baltic empire. This fate was only avoided because the Netherlands and England intervened, but the price was the ceding of all Scanian provinces east of the Oresund in 1658. The total area of the kingdom was thus reduced by almost a third and the population declined from 800,000 to 600,000. The catastrophe caused a political crisis which in 1660-1661 brought about a new form of government. By coup-like means, the old elective monarchy dominated by the aristocracy was replaced by a hereditary monarchy. The new hereditary king, Frederik III, and his successors gained absolute power.
The shirt is closed with ties at two points and the neckline opening is edged with lace. When seeing the shirt up close the minuscule superb stitching can be seen and the tiny stroked gathered with which the width of the neckline is gathered into the neckband.
This old photo shows the state of the garment before it was washed and conserved.
Fine soft lace on collar and cuffs adorns this shirt from the period between 1660 and 1680, though it tends to be more towards the 1660s, due to the attached falling band. Taking into consideration the change of shape of falling bands, this shirt could be from the late 1660s, early 1670s, when the periwigs were becoming almost compulsory and the long locks hid the sides of the collars, therefore they became narrower and longer in front.
Coat of a brown silk/wool which is said to have been worn by Prince Rupert. It shows the typical shape of the earlier coats, which are not as long yet and are not waisted at all but lose. The sleeves are slit and the coat is adorned with parchment lace which is made by tightly winding silk threads around strips of parchment, which is the incorporated into the lace design.
The same coat in a colour photo. The many small round buttons are clearly visible.
Coronation suit of the Swedish king Carl X Gustaf (Charles X Gustavus), who became king when Queen Christina I abdicated in 1654. Brown worsted embroidered allover with gold thread. Silver and metal ribbons at the waist and the typical short doublet with slit sleeves of the period late 50s to early 60s. The suit was made in France and assembled in Sweden.
Suit of the Swedish king Carl X Gustaf, made from scarlet worsted, embroidered in silver. He breeches are open-kneed like the ones of the brown suit and decorated with ribbon bows at the sides. Made in France, assembled in Sweden.
Suit with petticoat breeches made from reseda coloured brocaded silk. Many ribbon loops at the hem of the doublet, hanging over the waist and also at the cuffs.
Suit with wide breeches made from cloth of silver and adorned with silk silver ribbons in abundance and silver lace.
Buffcoat of the first half of the 17th century, closed with leather ties and embroidered wide, open sleeves. Loose, unfitted cut.
Buffcoat of the mid 17th century. The sleeves are decorated with silver gilt braid, as can be seen in many portraits of officers. The shape has become more fitted.  

Taken from From Aristocratic Government to Absolutism, in Factsheet Denmark - History.

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Nicole Kipar 1998