Nicole Kipar
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The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 3, Page 7
Gentry and Aristocracy, Men:
Undress and Informal

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men Gentry and Aristocracy, Women Gentry and Aristocracy, Men The Whole Look: Accessories Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear

All of the following images open in a new window for a detailed study.

The following paintings show gentlemen in undress, wearing silk gowns, so-called banyans. It appears that those were made by seamstresses and not by tailors, because they did not require shaping or fitting. Apparently women were wearing similar garments like those here and the later mantua probably developed out of those loose gowns. They are all simple t-shaped garments with V-shaped panels as gores for greater width at the side seams. Where any kind of shaping is involved, on female gowns, there is one example surviving on a doll from about 30 years later, the early 1690s, and that one shows darts put in, running down from the shoulders to diminish the width of the shoulders. The sleeves are simply straight rectangular panels.

Sir William Bruce Wright in a striped silk gown.
Vermeer painted the geographer in a lined silk gown.
The painter Peter Lely and Hugh May. Samuel Pepys in a brown silk Indian gown which he borrowed for the painting.

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Nicole Kipar 1998