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The 1660s
Restoration Costume Comes to Life

Part 3, Page 2
Gentry and Aristocracy, Men: Outer Garments

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5
Lower Class Women and Men Gentry and Aristocracy, Women Gentry and Aristocracy, Men The Whole Look: Accessories Costume Focus: Women's Headwear & Neckwear
 

All of the following images open in a new window for a detailed study. All of them are details taken from paintings and they are all from the 1660s except where indicated.

A strange and effeminate age when men strive to imitate women in their apparel, viz. long periwigs, patches in their faces, painting, short wide breeches like petticoats, muffs, and their clothes highly scented, bedecked with ribbons of all colours.
(The Life and Times of Anthony Wood, 1663)

Please note that the change of fashionable silhouette for men was tremendous in the decade of the 1660s, but there are less images available than there are for women. It is curious to note though, while there are literally hundreds of paintings of Dutch masters of the period showing women of all classes, and only few English portraits except for the beauties of the restoration court, who are draped in luscious silks but usually not garments which were actually worn; there are few Dutch paintings showing gentlemen or men at a whole unless they are in the context of being in a kind of relation to the female figures who are the protagonists dominating the paintings. On the other hand there are many more English portraits of gentlemen and also many depiction of French gentlemen.

Samuel Pepys Diary
1660. May 24. Up, and made myself as fine as I could, with the linning stockings on and wide canons that I bought the other day at Hague.
1662. June 12. I tried on my riding-cloth suit with close knees, the first that I ever had; and I think they will be very convenient, if not too hot to wear any other open knees after them.
1663. May 9. At Mr. Jervas's, my old barber, I did try two or three borders and periwigs, meaning to wear one; and yet I have no stomach, but that the pains of keeping my hair clean is so great.
May 10. (Lord's day). Put on a black cloth suit with white lynings under all, as the fashion is to wear, to appear under the breeches.

Early 1660s
French gentleman with a very richly plumed hat. Ribbons are worn in abundance and the canions below the breeches and hanging over the stockings are large.
Early 1660s
Gentleman in petticoat breeches with ribbon loops at the waist, dancing.
Early 1660s
Proper deportment when bowing and greeting in falling band and cloak. Holland.
1650-60
Open kneed breeches with ribbon loops. The hat is tall with plumes hanging down. France.
1650-60
Open kneed breeches with ribbon lops all around the edge. Boothose are worn, the hat is very tall. France.
1650-60
Gentleman of the same painting wearing petticoat breeches over close fitting breeches. France.
1650-60
Open kneed breeches and canions. Cloak over one shoulder. France.
Boots and hat worn indoors as it usually is. Only in the company of the king must the hat be taken off, unless authorised by the king himself. Holland.
1660
Spectators at the day of departure of Charles II from Scheveningen to England. Cloaks and cassocks over coats that are in length between a short doublet and later coat. Holland.
1660
Canions and hats with ribbons. Holland.
1660
Tall hat and cloak worn over short doublet and very wide shirt that billows out at the waist. Petticoat breeches with ribbon loops and canions falling in flounces over the stockings. Holland.
1666
The painter Wolfgang Heimbach. I am not sure though if there is a specific meaning to the small skull cap worn on his head and underneath the hat. It appears in many paintings. Denmark.
1666
Falling band and red breeches with canions. Black coat, unclear what the beige is coming from underneath the coat. Gloves. Denmark.
1666
Wide collar of the earlier type, military style coat and bucket top boots. It appears to be a man of the military rather than a civilian. Denmark.
1666
Skull cap again, long coat with red turn back cuffs and bucket top boots. Denmark.
1666
Plain black garments worn by an older man.
1666
Two boys in small size versions of the adult clothing.
1666
red ribbon loops at shoulder and in the hat and on the breeches. Denmark.
1666
Black boots and black plume in his hat. Wearing a cravat. Denmark.
1660
Circular cloak seen from behind. Holland.
1660
French fashionable gentleman in exaggerated outfit, a fashion fop. Petticoat breeches and wide shirt under short doublet. Ribbon loops all around the waist.
1660
Short doublet and breeches with ribbon loops, but worn in a plain version. Holland.
1660
English country gentleman in old fashioned outfit of tight breeches and wide collar. Tall hat and doublet with split sleeves.
1660
Skittle players, this gentleman with large canions at the breeches. Holland.
1660
Same painting, the petticoat breeches are better visible, plain version. Holland.
1660
Same painting, youth holding his head in his hand.
1660
Dutch gentleman with cloak draped across his chest and tall hat. Holland.
2nd Duke of Buckingham from after 1666 in the new fashion. The falling band is still from the earlier years, but the waistcoat with the ribbons and lace frills peeping from underneath the coat sleeve shows the new fashion.
Gentleman who appears to be a fashion victim in blue silk stockings and a second pair, probably boothose, falling down over them, worn with shoes. Petticoat breeches with ribbons and short doublet. Admiral de Ruyter in plain black clothes, the Protestant ideal. Holland.
English gentleman in falling band, doublet and petticoat breeches of the early part of the decade. Similar clothes to the gentleman o the left, same painting.
Long curly hair and falling band, worn with short doublet. Similar to the others, but apparently with very full breeches.
Gentleman fro after 1666 fishing in a long coat and low crowned hat. Gentleman in an abundance of ribbons on the new style coat which is decorate all over with broad gold braid.
Duke of Lauderdale in open coat showing the many small round buttons. Dutch gentleman at home in front of his writing desk wearing tight silk stockings with his breeches.
Caricature of a fashion fob by Roman de Hooghe showing the exaggerated version of the long coat and short waistcoat. 1661
Charles II dancing in the Hague, wearing petticoat breeches, short doublet and gloves.
1661
Gentleman of the same painting, with a cassock over his shoulder. The buttons can be seen at the side seam.
1661
James Duke of York by Lely in yellow silks with canions. Yellow was the colour of the Duke of York.
1662
Plain colours and open kneed breeches. Holland.
1662
Black garments, Protestant family. Holland.
1662
Same painting, slightly different colour, as plain as the others. Holland.
1662
Back view of petticoat breeches and doublet. England.
1662-65
Young man in black, wearing fine cloths. Holland.
1663
Louis XIV in a suit adorned with many ribbons and god laced or embroidered. This is the French fashion e English tried to break away from.
1663
Same painting, petticoat breeches and large bows at the shoes.
1663
Simpler version with full breeches.
1663-65
Long circular cloak draped across the chest. Holland.
1664-65
Slit sleeves on this short doublet worn by the Duke of Argyll.
1665
Man on horseback. Holland.
1665
Marquis of Tweedall in the very new fashion. Perhaps the dating of the painting is a bit too early though. Do study this painting closely, because it shows the features very well. England.
1665
Young lord in by now old fashioned clothes. Compare this one to the Marquis of Tweedall.
1666
More sober version of the short doublet.
1666-68
Curious slashed doublet. Holland.
1667
Another perfect example of what was introduced in 1666 and to what heights of ribbons and lace it came shortly. England.
1667
Louis XIV in a brocaded coat and embroidered full breeches.
1667
John Leslie in sober version of the long coat. Ribbon bows in abundance at the sleeves. England.
1667
Another interesting example to be studied, this time with a falling band still. England.
1667
Louis XIV in what was called by Charles II going 'away' from the French fashion, yet the French king appears in the same combination. Brocaded though and embroidered.
1667
Young man in long coat, still wearing boot hose. England.
1667-68
Dutch gentlemen, one with cloak.
1668
Dutch gentleman in long coat and with low crowned hat.
Early 1660s, doublet from the back with cloak over one shoulder.
Louis XIV from a court almanac. Interesting again to note though this is apparently late 1660s, he is wearing the long coat. Late 1660s
Gentleman in red coat, out to riding. The sleeves are fashionably short.
Late 1660s
Equally fashionable gentleman in the long coat with short sleeves and turn back cuffs but without the exaggeration of an abundance of laces and ribbons.
French nobleman in early 1660s doublet with slit sleeves, tall plumed hat and open kneed breeches with ribbon rosette.
Louis XIV in late 1660s coat with short sleeves and very full breeches all made from brocade and embroidered.  

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Nicole Kipar 1998