The Uniforms

The Coat

The outer shell was made of scarlet broadcloth, lined with sea-green baize (a coarse felt-like wool) or serge (a sturdy woollen twill), and cut from four panels. It was a rather straight, loose kneelength cut with little definition at the waist. The sleeves were turned backed to reveal the lining. The coats had pewter buttons from neck to hem, but were commonly unbuttoned below the waist for ease of movement on the march and in the field. Buttons should be about 5/8 - 3/4" (15-18mm) in diameter, at least 24 down the front, 7 on the rear vent, 5 on each sleeve, and 5 on each pocket. The pockets were functional and set low on the coat, usually with narrow horizontal flaps. Coats were purchased en masse and probably came out in three sizes: too big, too small, and almost right. If a soldier wanted a better or more personal fit, he would have to pay a tailor out of his own pocket.

French coat now preserved in the Swedish army museum, said to have been sent by Louis XIV of France to Charles XI of Sweden, which served as the inspiration for the 1687 Swedish uniform. This example is actually dark blue lined with red (with a red detachable cuff, giving the impression that the foresleeve was from a waistcoat). The cut of this coat is the same as the coats which would have been worn by British soldiers in the late 17th century (although the detachable foresleeves were quite unusual).

Another French coat now preserved in the Swedish army museum, said to have been sent by Louis XIV of France to Charles XI of Sweden, also dark blue lined with red. The Mercure Galant of June 1687 reports the new fashion of 'bizarre' pocket flaps cut in chevrons or zig-zags which would date this coat fairly closely. The cut of this coat is the same as the coats which would have been worn by British soldiers.

Waistcoats

Waistcoats (or 'vests' to use their correct 17th century name) were not issued to the army until the 1680's and possibly not until William III's reign, although they had been worn since the 1660's. It was originally an optional item and the soldiers would, upon receiving their annual new uniform, disassemble the old coats and use cleaner interior face for the new outer face. As such they would be sea-green baize or serge, lined with red broadcloth. That it was standard practice is confirmed by the Duke of Marlborough's order
of 1702:

"And whereas a complaint has been made about the expense in turning the soldier's coats into waistcoats, 'tis ordered that all Colonels do the same out of the clothing money."

The Breeches

The breeches were of sea-green kersey, a ribbed woolen fabric that was once commonly used to make stockings, trousers or breeches. They had full seats and moderately wide legs, to allow the soldier to kneel whilst firing his musket. Garters were run through the kneebands to tie them just below the knee. The breeches were no longer highwaisted but were cut to ride on the hips. They were secured about the waist with either a sash through the waistband which either tied in the front or with a strap and buckle in the rear, or buttons on the waistband. They would be lined with linen or light wool with vertical slit pockets of chamois leather on each side. The fly buttons were identical to the coat and 5-8 in number.

The Shirt

Shirts were made up from rectangles of cloth and cut very full (although the sleeves would not be as full as the earlier shirts), and gathered at the neck and cuffs. Neckbands and cuffs were 1 to 2 inches wide and were fastened at the wrists and throat with either ties or small buttons. Linen was a common material but cotton was by this time also beginning to be used.

The Cravat/Collar

In the 1660's a bib-shaped falling band was still being worn. By the 1670's it had been replaced with a scarf or neckcloth - the cravat. During the early 1670's either type could have been worn.

Originally worn by Croatian light cavalry, the name cravat probably came from a French corruption of the German name for these Croat troops - 'Crabatten'. Early examples of the cravat were often plain, however, richer examples soon came to be made of the same types of lace which had previously decorated the 'falling band'. In this early style they were often tied together with thin lengths of coloured ribbon. In the next stage of its development the cravat was 'backed' by an array of stiffened ribbons, often in colours matching those decorating the coat, breeches or shoes. This style was sometimes worn by soldiers, but by the 1680's it was generally replaced by a simpler style, without ribbons. By the 1690's cravats tended to be plain, particularly when being worn in the 'Steenkirk' style (see below).

Cravats were five to seven feet long and six inches wide. They were worn folded in half lengthwise and wound several times about the neck, then loosely knotted with long ends hanging down the front of the shirt. Linen was the most common fabric, but muslin, cotton or silk (for the wealthy) were also used. High quality Cravats would be edged in lace. The best quality examples were of the highly expensive venetian gros-point lace.

Falling band collars of the 1660's and early 1670's.	Cravats of the 1670's and 1680's
Cravats of the 1680's and 1690's.	Cravat being worn in the 'Steenkirk' style of the 1690's.

They could be of yarn, which was specified in the warrant, kersey, or worsted wool. They were white and came well above the knee to mid-thigh. In cold weather two pair were worn.

The Shoes

The square toed, high tongued shoes were made of black leather with no right or left foot and squared heels. The open sides seen earlier during the period had eventually disappeared by 1680.

The Hat

Hats were made of black felt, with low crowns and wide brims. They were trimmed with white ribbon or braid (or for officers with silver lace or braid). They were cocked up in front or on the side to keep them from being knocked off during drills. The would have green hat-bands of wool or linen.

Hat, as it would have been worn by the soldiers of Kirke's Lambs.

The Sash

The sash came into military use circa 1673 or 1674 to cinch in the waist of the rather straight cut coats. These sashes, made from white broadcloth for pikemen, or crimson silk for officers. They were edged and the ends fringed with the lining colour (privates) or silver metallic fringes (officers). They were 14 to 18" (35-45cm) wide and nine feet long (2.70m). They were worn folded in half lengthwise, wrapped once about the waist and knotted with the fringed ends hanging down (a cravat for the waist), or occasionally worn over one shoulder and tied at the opposite hip.

Belts and Baldrics

Belts and baldrics were used to support the sword, and were made of buff leather. The basic kind were of fairly simple construction, and were 2-3" wide. This type would have been used by most private soldiers. Officers tended to wear a broader baldric, around 5" wide, and this type normally had an extension on them. Officers' baldrics were often lavishly decorated with metallic fringes, laces and velvet or silk coverings. Plain buff leather versions of these could also be used by privates. During the 1680's the waistbelt gradually replaced the baldric for musketeers, and eventually for pikemen too, although some officers continued wearing their decorated baldrics right through the 1690's.

Buff leather sword-belt of the type which would have been worn by the regiment.	Buff leather baldrics. The type on the left is the simple kind which would have been used by most privates, the right hand type would have been more likely to have been worn by an officer.

Capes and Greatcoats

The Warrant of 1678 called for troops to be issued with cloth cloaks lined with baize for inclement weather. There is no indication given to their colour, but it is safe to assume that they were the common army colour, either scarlet or gray. Each company was also issued a few heavy greatcoats or watchcoats for centinel service (sentry duty).

Gloves

Gloves and mittens were not issued to soldiers, but they were necessary in cold and wet weather, and were purchased or "requisitioned" by the individual rank and file. They could be either gauntlet style made of brown or buff leather or knit from wool yarn.

Fatigue or Undress Coat

The scarlet and green uniform coat was for dress occasions and not worn every day, but only when on parade and active duty. For work details and off-duty a grey coat of a cheaper grade of wool was issued to the army.

The Periwig

The periwig or peruke was an important part of a gentleman's apparel from the early 1660's onwards. At first it was a concession to the impracticalities of the long hair fashionable at the time, but later became a fashion accessory in its own right. The shape of periwigs reflected this change, with those of the 1660's attempting to produce the look of real hair and later versions becoming more unnatural. Generally wigs became larger and taller and by the 1700's sometimes had pointed horns or other exaggerations protruding from the top, Likewise colours became more unusual with reddish browns, greys (often with bizarre tinges of colour), and (later) whites popular. Whilst campaigning the wig would, typically, be tied at the back in the form of a 'pony-tail'. This later developed into the 'bag-wig' style which would end the dominance of the full bottomed wig.

The 'Steenkirk' Style

In 1692 during William III's surprise attack on the French encampment at Steenkirk it is said that the Gardes Francaise were unable to dress themselves in time to counter the Allied offensive, and fought back in a half dressed state. In this condition they managed to push back the repeated attacks by the British troops facing them and in the process created a new fashion. Although this story of the origin of the 'Steenkirk' style might be a myth of fashion, but a very charming one. This new style involved the clothing being worn in a generally unkempt manner (often the coat would be worn without the vest, this was thought particularly 'sexy'!) In the case of the cravat, the style determined that it should be worn wrapped loosely around the neck, with the ends tucked into convenient buttonholes, to avoid it becoming unravelled. Sometimes the ends of the cravat were knotted to make them more secure once they had been pushed through the buttonholes.

Patterns

One major problem of our period is that no uniform patterns exist before 1742. There were in fact, patterns and these correct or official patterns, as well as cloth specimens, were either loaned or issued to clothiers. There were two copies of these patterns; one was kept in the Tower, and the other was kept in the Strand. Both were destroyed by fires, one in the mid 18th and one in the mid 19th century. Even if they had survived, these 'patterns' would tell only part of the story: changes to a regiment's uniform could occur on the whim of its commander following latest fashions. In 1695 in order to check a growing fad for grenadier style caps King William issued an order that

'none of our regts. or companies of Foot do wear caps, excepting only the Royal Regiment of Fusileers, the Regt. of Scots Fusileers, and the Grenadiers of each respective regiment.

Our patterns have been reconstructed from illustrations, paintings, written descriptions, and surviving civilian garments. It must be remembered that, at this time, military fashion was heavily influenced by non-military styles and patterns. Also, there was a fair amount of variation from the official patterns made by individual regiments.

Replacement of Worn-out Clothing

After enlistment the ordinary soldier was issued a complete uniform, as described in warrant above, and was to receive a new set annually but like his pay this also was often in arrears. He got NOTHING for free and he was required to pay back his colonel for the privilege of serving King and Country by an off-reckoning or deduction of 2d taken from his daily wage. The warrant of 1678 tells us:

"the said clothing be satisfied for out of the off-reckonings of their pay, over and above their weekly subsistence money, from time to time. And in the case of new-raised forces be disbanded before the off-reckonings reserved shall be sufficient to pay for the above clothing, what they fall short shall be paid out of Our treasure ... provided that the particulars before-mentioned do not exceed 53 shillings in the whole for each man."

If a regiment was disbanded, or reduced in size, soldiers returning to civilian life were allowed to keep the items that they had paid for from their off-reckonings. The warrant of 1678 tells us:

"That the non-commissioned Officers and Soldiers be permitted to carry away with them their clothes, belt and snapsack, and the sergeants likewise their sword; and that each private soldier, corporal, and drummer be allowed 3s. for his sword."

Often it would take him the whole year to settle this expenditure just in time to replace the now ragged uniform with a new one and be off-reckoned again! If the uniform cost the full 53s mentioned above it would have been the equivalent of 79.5 days pay, or 318 days off-reckonings at 2d per day.